Silver over gold, rose cuts, settings backed in dark: this is how cluster rings were built in the nineteenth century, before platinum became the white metal of choice. The silver makes the diamonds read brighter, the gold carries the shank. Twelve rose-cut diamonds lie in a wreath around an oval ruby cabochon, each stone held in its own claws. The shoulders are worked with crisp edges and taper into the narrow shank, the oval head stands high and covers the full width of the finger. The ruby shows fine fissures and a softly matted, grown-in surface. We deliberately left it in place, a new stone in an old setting takes away exactly what you buy such a ring for. The silver carries the dark patina that belongs to settings like these.